Parkin & Gerrish Jewellery Glossary
At Parkin & Gerrish, we believe jewellery is never just decoration — it is always a story. From Georgian sentiment to Art Deco glamour, every jewel carries its own language. Use this glossary to decode the hallmarks, gemstones, motifs, and cuts you’ll encounter in our collection and beyond.
A
Agate – Banded chalcedony in every shade; loved in Victorian Scottish jewels. Moss agate’s fern-like inclusions symbolised growth and renewal.
Alabaster – Soft gypsum/calcite carved for cameos and intaglios since antiquity.
Alexandrite – Rare chrysoberyl that changes colour — green by day, red by lamplight — discovered in Russia and named for Tsar Alexander II.
Almandine Garnet – Deep purplish-red garnet popular in Georgian & Victorian jewels; in cabochon it’s called a carbuncle.
Amber – Fossilised resin, honey to cognac, sometimes holding prehistoric insects; prized since antiquity.
Amethyst – Violet quartz (February birthstone), from lilac to regal purple; beloved in Georgian and Edwardian rings.
Ametrine – Natural union of amethyst and citrine, most famously from Bolivia.
Andalusite – Collectors’ gem showing intriguing cross-shaped inclusions (chiastolite) and earthy tones.
Andradite (Demantoid) – Garnet species; demantoid’s electric green “fire” dazzled Belle Époque Russia.
Apatite – Lively teal to mint crystals; softer, so best for occasional wear.
Aquamarine – Sea-blue beryl, adored in Edwardian and Art Deco jewels; a talisman for calm seas.
Aragonite – Calcium carbonate crystal found in molluscs; part of what makes pearls and mother-of-pearl.
Aventurine – Quartz sprinkled with glittering inclusions; green types contain fuchsite mica.
Azurite / Azurmalachite – Copper minerals in azure blue, often entwined with malachite’s rich green — painterly and bold.
Art Deco (1920s–1930s) – Geometry, calibré sapphires, platinum and diamonds; cocktail-hour sparkle.
Art Nouveau (1890s–1910s) – Whiplash lines, enamel, dragonflies and nymphs — Lalique’s poetic world.
Asscher Cut – Step-cut square diamond (1902): a miniature hall of mirrors.
B
Baguette Cut – Slim rectangular step cuts; Cartier revived them in 1912.
Belle Époque (c.1890–1914) – Lace-light platinum garlands, bows and romance before the War.
Benitoite – Denim-blue Californian rarity; the state gem.
Birthstones – Months paired with gems for meaning and luck; Victorians adored sentimental birthstone rings.
Biwa Pearl – Cultured freshwater pearls of Lake Biwa, Japan; irregular, luminous, mid-century chic.
Bloodstone – Green chalcedony with red flecks; protective, heroic lore.
Book Chain – Victorian necklace of engraved rectangular links, often suspending a locket.
Boulder Opal – Opal seams in ironstone matrix; painterly flashes of colour.
C
Cabochon – Smooth, domed cut (no facets) that flatters opal, moonstone, star gems and antique splendour.
Cairngorm – Scottish smoky quartz/citrine used in Victorian Highland dress jewels.
Calibré – Small stones precisely cut to fit a design — an Art Deco signature.
Cameo – Relief carving (often shell or hardstone) depicting portraits or myths; a 19th-century favourite.
Carnelian – Warm red-orange chalcedony; perfect for signet rings and intaglios.
Carbon – The element behind both diamonds and jet — jewellery’s roots in the earth.
Chalcedony – The silky microcrystalline quartz family: agate, carnelian, chrysoprase and more.
Chlorastrolite – “Green star stone” with turtle-back pattern; niche, charming.
Chrysoberyl (incl. Cat’s-eye) – Brilliant, tough gem species; alexandrite and cat’s-eye are its celebrities.
Chrysocolla – Blue-green chalcedony with a painterly calm.
Chrysoprase – Apple-green chalcedony (nickel-coloured); adored in Georgian and Art Deco jewels.
Cinnabar – Vermilion mercury sulphide; carved beads and inlays in Japonisme pieces.
Citrine – Sunlit yellow quartz; abundant in Retro bracelets and 1930s rings.
Cluster Ring – A central gem haloed by smaller stones — romantic from Georgian to modern.
Colombian Emerald – The most coveted emerald origin: velvety, luminous green.
Conch Pearl – Rare pink, flame-textured non-nacreous pearls from the queen conch; Caribbean treasures.
Conchiolin – Organic binder in nacre (pearl and mother-of-pearl).
Copal – Young resin often mistaken for amber; acetone helps tell them apart.
Coral – Organic gem from marine colonies; oxblood to angel-skin; Georgian, Victorian and Art Deco favourite.
Corundum – Mineral family of ruby (red) and sapphire (all other colours).
Cushion Cut (Old Mine) – Softly squared antique brilliant; candle-glow romance.
D
Demantoid – Fiery green andradite garnet, often with “horsetail” inclusions; Russian chic.
Diamond – The hardest gem, symbol of eternity. Old mine & old European cuts glow with soft candlelit fire.
Diopside – Chrome-green to honey tones; a modern collector’s pleasure.
Dog Collar (Collier de Chien) – Close-fitting choker of pearls, velvet or diamonds; supremely Edwardian.
Druse – A glittering carpet of minute crystals, like frosted sugar.
E
Edwardian (1901–1910) – Platinum lace, bows, garlands; lightness and elegance.
Emerald – Green beryl coloured by chromium; celebrated since Cleopatra.
Enamel – Fused coloured glass on metal. Guilloché enamel shimmers over engine-turned patterns.
Epidote – Rarely faceted mineral; sometimes seen in Arts & Crafts pieces.
Emerald (Trapiche) – A star-like segmented pattern radiating from the core — Colombian magic.
F
Facet – Flat surface cut into a gem to orchestrate brilliance.
Feldspar – Mineral family behind moonstone, labradorite and amazonite.
Filigree – Precious-metal lace; an Edwardian and Belle Époque speciality.
Fire – Flashes of spectral colour from dispersion (diamonds, demantoids, zircons).
French Cut – Squared stones whose crown facets form a cross; elegant in Art Deco.
Fool’s Gold – Pyrite; golden sparkle without gold’s softness.
G
Garnet – A family from deep pyrope reds to lush tsavorite greens; a Victorian darling.
Georgian (1714–1837) – Handmade jewels, closed backs, foiled gems, sentimental motifs — rare and precious.
Geuda – Sri Lankan sapphire rough transformed to cornflower blues by heat.
Gota de Aceite – “Drop of oil”: silky glow in top emeralds.
Grossular (Tsavorite, Hessonite) – From minty tsavorite to whisky-warm hessonite.
Guilloché – Engine-turned metal beneath translucent enamel; Fabergé finesse.
H
Hallmark – Stamped guarantee of metal purity, date, place and often maker — tiny marks, big history.
Hardstone Cameo – Cameo carved from layered agate/onyx; crisp classical portraits.
Hematite – Steel-grey metallic lustre; chic in Victorian and modernist jewels.
Hiddenite – Vivid green spodumene; rarer sister to kunzite.
Horn / Hornbill “Ivory” – Natural materials carved into Art Nouveau combs and ornaments.
I
Idocrase (Vesuvianite) – Apple-green gemstone sometimes nicknamed “Californite”.
Intaglio – Image carved into a stone for seals; the reverse of a cameo.
Iolite – Violet-blue “water sapphire” with shimmering pleochroism.
Ivory – Historic material from tusk; now highly regulated — we avoid modern trade and celebrate antique provenance responsibly.
J
Jade – A category covering jadeite & nephrite; revered in East Asia.
Jadeite – The rarer, more valuable jade; vivid “imperial” greens to lilacs.
Jasper – Opaque chalcedony in myriad patterns; Victorian Scottish jewels abound.
Jet – Fossilised wood from Whitby; lightweight and deep black — perfect for mourning jewels.
Jugendstil – German Art Nouveau: stylised flora and sensuous line.
K
Kashmir Sapphire – The dream: velvety cornflower blue; among the rarest gemstones.
Kunzite – Pastel pink-lilac spodumene named for George Kunz; glamorous in Retro gold.
Kyanite – Midnight to cornflower blues, with characterful cleavage — best for pendants and earrings.
L
Labradorite – Feldspar with iridescent “labradorescence” — blues and greens that flash like northern lights.
Lapis Lazuli – Royal blue rock sprinkled with golden pyrite; ancient, enduring.
Lover’s Knot – Motif of intertwined love and fidelity; Georgian to Edwardian romance.
M
Malachite – Banded green copper carbonate; striking in Victorian revival jewels.
Marcasite – In jewellery this is actually faceted pyrite set into silver; sparkling, graphic, very Deco.
Meerschaum – Light, porous mineral carved into cameos and curios.
Microcline (Amazonite) – The feldspar behind amazonite’s minty blue-green.
Moldavite – Tektite born of meteor impact; rippled, olive-green, otherworldly.
Mollusc / Mother-of-Pearl – The pearly lining used for inlay and buttons; also the birthplace of pearls.
Montana Sapphire – Alluring blues from America’s “Big Sky” state; often parti-coloured.
Moonstone – Soft, ethereal glow (adularescence); a talisman of romance.
Moss Agate – Chalcedony with moss-like inclusions; Victorian sentiment.
Mourning Jewellery – Memorial pieces with jet, black enamel, seed pearls (tears), and woven hair; love remembered.
N
Navette (Marquise) – Little “boat” shape, pointed ends; elegant elongation of the finger.
Nephrite – Tough, silky member of the jade family; creamy whites to spinach greens.
Nicolo – Intaglio/cameo carved so the design appears ghostly blue on black onyx.
Niello – Blackened silver inlay in etched designs; bold contrast.
Natural (diamond) – A tiny remnant of a diamond’s original skin thoughtfully left by the cutter.
O
Obsidian – Volcanic glass in glossy blacks and smoky greys.
Oligoclase (Sunstone) – Feldspar with coppery glitter; warm, glowing cabochons.
Onyx – Banded black/white chalcedony; ideal for crisp cameos and mourning jewels.
Opal (incl. Fire Opal) – Hydrated silica with play-of-colour; Mexican fire opal glows orange-red, often without play.
Orthoclase – Feldspar variety; host of classic moonstone.
P
Padparadscha – Rare pink-orange sapphire; a sunrise captured.
Paraíba Tourmaline – Neon Caribbean-blue to green tourmaline (Brazil and beyond); electric and coveted.
Pearl – Organic gem born of molluscs; natural or cultured, lustre is everything.
Peau d’Ange – “Angel-skin” — a delicate pink prized in coral.
Peridot – Olive-to-apple-green gem from volcanic rock; adored by Edward VII.
Petrified Wood – Chalcedony replacing ancient wood — time frozen.
Plagioclase – Feldspar sub-series containing labradorite/oligoclase.
Prase / Prasiolite – Leek-green chalcedony / rare green quartz (often heat-treated).
Princess Cut – Modern square brilliant; sharp, bright drama.
Pyrite – Golden metallic crystals; sculptural in Arts & Crafts jewels.
Pyrope – The classic Victorian “Bohemian” deep-red garnet.
Q
Quahog – American clam that occasionally yields rare purple-toned pearls (non-nacreous).
Quartz – The great family: amethyst, citrine, rose quartz, rock crystal, smoky, and more.
Quatrefoil – Four-lobed motif of harmony and luck; elegant in Edwardian jewels.
R
Radiant Cut – Square/rectangular brilliant-style cut; bright edges, modern glamour.
Rhodochrosite – Raspberry-pink with creamy “bacon fat” banding; more often carved than faceted.
Rhodonite – Dusky pink with inky veins; moody and romantic.
Rock – An aggregate of minerals; when beautiful or historic enough, fashioned into jewels.
Rock Crystal – Colourless quartz; crisp, cool, endlessly versatile.
Rose Quartz – Soft pink quartz; often cut as cabochons and beads.
Ruby – Red corundum; Burmese “pigeon’s blood” sets the standard.
Rub-over (Bezel) Setting – Protective collar of metal hugging the gem’s edge; sleek and antique-smart.
S
Sapphire – Corundum in every colour except red; Kashmir, Ceylon and Montana are famed origins.
Sard – Darker, browner cousin of carnelian; Roman signets and Victorian cufflinks.
Saussurite – Greenish rock of zoisite/feldspar; occasional carving material.
Seed Pearl – Tiny pearls (<2 mm) used as delicate borders in Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian jewels.
Serpentine – Serpentine-patterned green stones; often carved.
Shell – Organic material carved into cameos and adornments since antiquity.
Shale – Fine-grained sedimentary rock, sometimes set polished in Arts & Crafts pieces.
Silhouette – Profile portrait motif (from cut paper to cameo).
Single Cut / Swiss Cut – Early/simple diamond cuts with fewer facets; twinkling accents in antique settings.
Smoky Quartz (Cairngorm) – Misty browns and greys; Highland romance.
Sodalite – Navy-blue shot with white; sometimes mistaken for lapis.
Spessartite – Mandarin-orange garnet with joyous glow.
Spinel – Durable gem in vivid reds, pinks, blues; once masqueraded as “ruby” in royal crowns.
Star Sapphire/Ruby – Corundum showing asterism — a star that dances with light.
Suffragette Jewellery – Green (hope), white (purity), violet (freedom): “Give Women Votes.”
Swallow Motif – Symbol of safe return and enduring love; a Victorian favourite.
T
Table Cut – One of the earliest diamond cuts: flat top, simple dignity.
Tahitian Pearl – Cultured pearls from black-lip oysters; peacock lustres.
Tanzanite (Zoisite) – Blue-violet beauty discovered in 1967; instantly iconic.
Tiger’s Eye – Chatoyant quartz in golden browns; silky bands that ripple with light.
Topaz – From delicate sherry to imperial pink-orange; blue topaz is commonly treated.
Tortoiseshell – Historic material (hawksbill/loggerhead); now protected — antique only.
Tourmaline – The chameleon gem: verdelites, rubellites and bi-colours abound.
Trapiche (Emerald/Ruby) – Wheel-like growth pattern with dark spokes; mesmerising.
Tremblant – Jewels mounted on springs that quiver with movement — flowers and butterflies come alive.
Turquoise – Sky-to-robin’s-egg blue copper mineral; Victorian sentiment and Southwestern soul.
U
Unakite – Green epidote with salmon-pink feldspar; often tumbled and polished in mid-century jewels.
V
Victorian (1837–1901) – Early (romantic), Mid (grand), Late (mourning): snakes for eternal love, hearts, lockets, jet.
Vintage – Generally 20–100 years old; think 1970s bold gold chains and 1980s sculptural earrings.
Vauxhall Glass – Mirrored glass used to imitate gems in Georgian jewels — lively, graphic sparkle.
W
White Gold – Gold alloy lightened with palladium/nickel; often rhodium-plated for brightness.
Witch’s Heart – Heart with a flirtatious curl — “bewitched in love”.
X
X Motif – Seen literally in Victorian jewellery. The central “X” design symbolises a kiss and, therefore, love — a jewel that wears its sentiment proudly.
Y
Yellow Gold – Classic, warm gold alloyed with silver and copper; timeless with coloured stones.
Z
Zinc – Useful in historical alloys like pinchbeck.
Zircon – Natural gemstone with dazzling fire; blues are often heat-treated.
Zoisite – Mineral family including tanzanite; also occurs in strawberry-pink thulite.
Gemstone Cuts & Shapes (Antique Lovers’ Edition)
Old Mine Cut (Cushion) – Squarish outline, high crown, small table, open culet; the quintessential Georgian/Victorian candle-glow.
Old European Cut – Rounder, more symmetrical cousin to the old mine; late-19th to early-20th-century sparkle.
Rose Cut – Flat base, domed top of triangular facets; moonlight rather than fireworks.
French Cut – Square/rectangular stones whose crown facets form a cross; chic in Deco bands.
Asscher Cut (1902) – Step-cut square with clipped corners; a mesmerising hall of mirrors.
Emerald Cut – Rectangular step cut; glassy, elegant, emphasises clarity.
Baguette – Slim rectangular step stones for strong Deco lines.
Briolette – Teardrop fully faceted; perfect for trembling drops and day-to-night earrings.
Table Cut – Early flat-topped style; medieval to Renaissance simplicity.
Princess Cut – Modern square brilliant; crisp edges, dramatic scintillation.
Radiant Cut – Square/rectangular brilliant hybrid; bright corners, glamorous presence.
Single / Swiss Cut – Early/simple accent cuts (fewer facets) that twinkle in antique pavé.
Calibré – Tiny gems cut to fit exactly — the secret of sharp Art Deco geometry.
Cameo / Intaglio – Raised (cameo) or incised (intaglio) carving in shell or hardstone for portraits, gods, and heraldry.
Navette (Marquise), Pear, Oval, Heart – Elegant outlines used across eras, each flattering in its own way.
Culet, Crown & Pavilion – The anatomy of a faceted gem: crown above the girdle, pavilion below; a tiny culet facet may be visible in antique stones.
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