Discover why Millennials and Gen Z are redefining luxury through antique and vintage jewellery. In this article, Zuleika Gerrish of Parkin & Gerrish shares her insights from a recent Observer feature on heirloom jewellery linking here. From the rise of sustainable sparkle to the emotional pull of storytelling, symbolism, and “quiet luxury,” explore how younger buyers are embracing heirlooms, coloured stones, and one-of-a-kind designs as wearable history.

1. To start, tell us a bit about your background. How did you get into the world of antique and estate jewelry, and what draws you to this segment of the industry?

I was born into the art world. My late father, Michael Parkin, ran a renowned art gallery, and my mother, Diana Parkin, is an artist and dealer. I studied History of Art, attended art school, and worked with galleries, auction houses, and art advisors. I always thought I would stay in that world... until jewellery found me! Now don’t get me wrong. I’ve always loved wearing jewellery (especially tiaras, I even tried to wear them to school). But it wasn’t until 2016, just before my wedding, when I was made redundant, that I unexpectedly entered the trade. My mother-in-law, Olly Gerrish, a dealer with over 45 years’ experience, asked if I’d like to help her at Grays Antiques. I said yes and was hooked almost instantly.

I found myself asking the same kinds of questions I used to ask about artworks: How do you know it’s original? Who made it? Does it have a provenance? Where’s it from? How old is it, really? Like art, antique jewellery is full of symbolism, secrets, and scholarship. There’s often more to discover on the reverse than the front… Just like the back of a canvas! It is the art of decoding!

One of the first lessons my father taught me was always to look at the back of a painting. Another came from my father-in-law, Nicholas Gerrish (an antique dealer): just because someone tells you what it is, doesn’t mean they are right. Question everything. If it still holds up to scrutiny, then you know you’ve found something truly special. That mindset shaped my approach as an art historian, and it’s central to how I work with jewellery. It’s not enough to know a piece is beautiful; I want to understand why.

Jewellery quickly became an obsession because it combines everything I love: research, craftsmanship, history, mystery, and a touch of romance! Antique jewellery is deeply personal; it’s wearable history, often carrying symbolic meaning or given to mark a memory. Jewellery unites us all. We have all been given or bought jewellery at some point. What captivated me more than anything were the stories.

And, perhaps ironically, that’s what resonates with me most on a personal level. I wear hearing aids, having lost much of my hearing to meningitis C as a child. So, while I don’t always hear people clearly, I love listening to what jewellery has to say. Every piece has a voice. Every jewel has a story.

In 2021, my husband Oliver (an architectural historian) and I co-founded Parkin & Gerrish. With two young children, we have mainly built our business online, offering private appointments and occasional pop-ups around Sloane Square. This gives me the flexibility to focus on what I love most: researching and curating antique and vintage jewellery with genuine character, provenance, and quality. Essentially, jewellery that speaks, while also balancing my role as a mother. I now hold FGA and DGA qualifications and am currently training to become an IRV (Institute Registered Valuer).

My goal with Parkin & Gerrish is to bring that spirit online, making antique jewellery feel exciting, trustworthy, and personal once again. Through videos, Instagram, and storytelling, I aim to create an experience that is as warm and genuine as it would be in a shop. Jewellery has become not just my profession, but my passion. I wear jewellery as much as I buy it. And because it constantly speaks, if you’re willing to look closely and listen.

2. In recent years, have you noticed a rise in younger buyers, particularly Millennials and Gen Z, shopping for vintage or heirloom jewelry? What trends or behaviors stand out to you most?

Yes. It’s been somewhat of a quiet revolution. Millennials and Gen Z (I’m technically a Millennial myself… though I always have to Google the age range to double-check!) are not just purchasing jewellery, they’re curating personal collections with significance.

We live in an era where nobody wants to look like everyone else. Younger buyers don’t want to be sheep. They seek individuality, stories, and jewellery that resonates with them. They’re rejecting mass-produced sparkle in favour of pieces with provenance, character, and personality. I often receive a DM at midnight asking whether a ring’s gemstone has symbolic meaning, or if it’s suitable for someone born under Aries or whether it’s “okay” to wear a mourning ring because it’s simply so beautiful. That level of curiosity and emotional connection is refreshing.

Coloured stones deserve a mention; the younger generation is favouring coloured stones, especially pastel colours, over traditional gems like diamonds, Rubies, Sapphires, and Emeralds. Aquamarines, Pink Topaz, and Blue Zircons, as well as the much lesser-known gemstones, are certainly gaining attention.

Stylistically, stacking and layering are significant. Imagine three necklaces, five rings, and a brooch added for good measure (It is a look that is modern Queen Alexandra!) And not just for women.. I have noticed men are reintroducing brooches in a big way on the red carpet (hello, Timothée Chalamet and Michael B. Jordan). Even tie pins are becoming popular (thank you, Bridgerton and The Gilded Age). Clients are effortlessly mixing eras and metals. Someone might wear a Georgian garnet cluster next to a 1970s citrine cocktail ring and appear entirely modern. That eclectic approach is very much in vogue now.

There’s also a strong emotional and ethical appeal. In an era of overproduction and fast fashion, buying antiques feels like a subtle act of rebellion. It’s circular fashion at its most glamorous. There’s also a growing interest in gemstone symbolism and crystal healing. For example, garnets for protection (with crystals), but it is the birthstone for January and, in the Victorian era, it was associated with love, devotion, and passion. Jewellery isn’t just aesthetic; it’s spiritual armour. 

At a recent cousin’s 21st birthday celebration, I observed guests proudly sporting their mother’s 1990s dresses or heirloom jewellery, not out of sentimentality, but because it was fashionable. (Thankfully, those tattoo necklaces, thin eyebrows, and that foundation lipstick look have not made a comeback!) Vintage jewellery becomes a conversation starter, a piece of living history. I’ve had Gen Z clients tell me they love that their Victorian bracelet predates electricity! It’s that blend of romance and rebellion that appeals to them.

Gifting trends are shifting too. (Although I should add my parents’ generation hate the term “gifted!” Families are still buying heirloom pieces for milestone birthdays, but the young are asking for antique jewels instead of designer handbags or clothes. It feels more personal and lasting. But what’s even more exciting is how many women are now buying for themselves, unapologetically! One said to me recently, “Why wait for a man to get the hint?” I couldn’t agree more. At Parkin and Gerrish, I pride myself on our slightly over-the-top gift wrapping. You could joke I’m like the Rowan Atkinson scene in Love Actually when it comes to wrapping. At Parkin & Gerrish, I personally wrap every piece, and it takes approximately 30 minutes on average. Most shops don’t go to that level of care, maybe because it’s time-consuming. But for me, it’s all part of the joy. It should feel like a present, whether it’s from someone else or just from you. It should never feel second hand.

And yes, engagement rings are evolving too. Antique rings offer more craftsmanship, more character, and more meaning, often at a much more accessible price. In a world where love is anything but uniform, these rings feel right. Like your relationship, they’re unique. And hopefully, built to last.

Interestingly, men are now purchasing engagement rings for themselves as well, often choosing symbolic designs like a snake motif (snakes represent eternal love). There’s greater freedom in what “forever” jewellery can look like, and I love that. And why can’t a man wear a diamond bangle or even a cocktail ring? It’s about personality. It is also more of a question, are you comfortable wearing what you love?

We’re also seeing a rise in antique jewellery on the red carpet, celebrities like Florence Pugh, Rihanna, and Zoë Kravitz have all embraced vintage jewels in recent years. It’s a reminder that antique doesn’t mean old-fashioned. In fact, it’s often the boldest, most modern choice in the room. The wolf, not the sheep, among a sea of Gucci belts and Chanel handbags!!

3. Why do you think antique and vintage jewelry is resonating so deeply with today’s luxury consumers, especially in contrast to newly made pieces?

True luxury, much like old money, doesn’t make loud statements. There’s increasing interest in the “old money” aesthetic, it is trending on social media, which is amusing because genuine old money doesn’t boast. That’s the essence: it communicates quietly through quality, craftsmanship, and restraint. This is a key reason why younger buyers are drawn to antique jewellery: it’s unique, rich in history, and conveys a great deal without words.

There’s a growing demand for unique pieces. Items that feel personal. When it comes to luxury, antique jewellery offers something modern mass production simply cannot: authenticity. Even on the catwalks of Dior, the new Creative Director, Jonathan Anderson, is a passionate supporter and wearer of antique jewellery. He has recently been sporting a rare antique brooch. 

Many modern jewellery pieces, even from big brands, are designed with computers and then 'hand-finished.” They may seem flawless, but they often lack character, or I rather harshly think they look clinical. Give me an old-cut diamond any day; the charm and sparkle is so romantic and wonderful. Antique items were entirely handmade from the beginning. They have endured centuries and bear the marks of time, which only adds to their charm. Do you not want to know their tells?

There’s also a growing backlash against excessive mark-ups. People are fed up with paying £2,000 for a gold-plated item made last week in a factory. Why do that when you could have something from 1880 that’s been passed down through generations and still looks stunning?

Just look at the demand on resale platforms like Vinted, it proves how much the second-hand market is booming. People want quality, and they want individuality. Antique jewellery delivers both and in style.

The Cartier exhibition currently on display at the Victoria and Albert Museum proves that we are still fascinated with big labels too. But look how the earlier work was all one of a kind and the later work is mass-produced. The real height of luxury is to find those one-of-a-kind jewels, especially if it is by Louis Cartier himself in Paris from the 1900s.

4.     What role do sustainability and ethical sourcing play in the growing interest in antique and estate jewelry? Are you hearing that language directly from clients?

Oh yes! More than ever. Sustainability has become a key concern for many of our clients, particularly younger buyers. They’re asking the right questions: Where did this come from? How was it made? Why mine more when so much beauty already exists? How do you know it is not a blood diamond?

And they’re right. Antique jewellery is, by its nature, the most sustainable option. No new materials are extracted; no additional environmental harm is done. It’s the original circular economy, but with better sparkle!

I’ll be honest, I’m not a fan of lab-grown diamonds (a topic that's quite timely for 2025, given the GIA's recent changes to their grading standards!). If you want the look, go ahead. But let’s call it what it is: costume jewellery with a lab invoice. The fact Temu is now selling synthetic diamonds should be a concern. There is a lot of greenwashing from companies selling them. A natural diamond, on the other hand, is a geological miracle formed over billions of years by mother nature. Thirty years down the line, it will still hold its value, probably more so over time. Sustainability isn’t just about how it was made, but whether it lasts. And antique jewellery? It has already proven it can stand the test of time.

There’s also a growing appreciation for untreated natural materials like coral, turquoise, and pearls that do not require polishing or laboratory work to shine. Clients are intrigued by the story behind these materials: how they were sourced, how they were worn, and what they symbolised. There’s a romance in that, as well as a sense of responsibility.

Second-hand doesn’t mean second-best. In fact, it often means better made, more beautiful, and far more thoughtful. And that, to me, is the true definition of sustainable luxury.

(On a side note, I so wish our government understood how valuable this is. I’d love to see export laws finally define vintage as anything over 25 years old!)

5.     For younger clients, how important is storytelling when it comes to a piece’s history or provenance? Do they tend to gravitate toward certain eras or motifs because of personal meaning or aesthetic preferences?

Storytelling is everything. A pretty ring is nice but a pretty ring with a tale of love, suffragette symbolism, or a hidden mourning message? That’s irresistible. It’s a bit like how social media algorithms work; the hook is in the story. If it connects, you stop scrolling.

At Parkin & Gerrish, we’re known for digging into the details, from hallmarks to hidden gemstone meanings and our clients absolutely love it. Some gravitate toward certain eras (the Georgian era always has a following), while others are drawn to symbolism, the snake of eternal love, the anchor of hope, and the pansy for “pensée” (thinking of you).

The real joy is when someone finds a piece that feels like it was meant for them. Something that aligns with their values, their aesthetic, or their star sign! That connection is priceless.

It’s also a little bit romantic. I met my husband through the Georgian Group so that I might be biased, but I truly believe these historical links draw people in. Period dramas like Bridgerton or The Gilded Age have done wonders for reigniting interest in jewellery with a past.

6.     From a value perspective, how do antique and vintage pieces compare to newly manufactured fine jewelry? Are younger buyers viewing them as long-term investments?

Absolutely. Antique and vintage pieces are often far better made than modern equivalents, using techniques and materials that are no longer available or affordable today. I also think modern jewellery tends to look so thick! A ring’s band is usually much thicker (not always, Lorraine Schwartz is well known for somehow creating thin bands for massive stones.. I am not sure how they hold!)

Each piece is unique, which gives it rarity value. And in the same way a classic car or an Old Master painting holds value, antique jewellery is increasingly seen as a wearable investment.

Of course, if you bought something two years ago and want to flip it next week, you might be disappointed. But buy something you love, wear it for decades, and chances are it will only become more special and more valuable.

You only must look at the auction world to see how prices for heirloom pieces have held firm, even in an uncertain market. Mass-produced jewellery rarely performs in the same way.

As my father always said: buy with your eye. If you truly love it, it will likely always have value to you and to others. Also it is much more fun to wear and own than just having shares!

7.     How has social media influenced the way vintage jewelry is discovered and appreciated? Are platforms like Instagram, TikTok, or Pinterest playing a role in demand?

Hugely. Social media has completely transformed the way people discover and engage with antique jewellery. Suddenly, a 19-year-old anywhere in the world can learn about mourning rings, micro mosaics, or suffragette symbolism, all from their phone, even if they are asking Chat GPT.

Instagram has been a game-changer for Parkin & Gerrish. It’s not just about showcasing the jewels, it’s where the stories unfold. Our audience is smart, curious, and wonderfully nerdy. They want to learn.

Pinterest is a brilliant platform for visual inspiration, but when it comes to antique jewellery, it can be a bit… tricky. Their advertising and community guidelines tend to favour content creators and brands over individual resellers or dealers, which means those of us in the antique trade often find ourselves caught in a grey area. You’re not allowed to promote “resale” items, which is essentially the heart of what we do, even if what you're offering is sustainable, historic, and beautifully curated. It's slightly ironic, considering how many Pinterest boards are filled with images of antique engagement ideas alone. The appetite is clearly there, but the platform doesn’t quite know how to accommodate those who sell the pieces that people are pinning. It’s a bit like walking past a bakery window every day, admiring the cakes, but being told you’re not allowed to buy one!

YouTube is another expanding space I’m eager to explore more. I’ve started making videos there and am gaining followers steadily. I’m less comfortable on TikTok (I leave the dancing to Gen Z), but even on that platform, antique jewellery is gaining popularity.

Social media has democratised access to antiques. You don’t need to walk into a Mayfair showroom to fall in love with a piece. And it allows us, as dealers, to share the history, meaning, and romance behind every jewel, and in a way, get much more personal with the viewer, wherever they are in the world.

8.     Which historical periods or design styles are currently trending among younger collectors: Art Deco, Victorian, Mid-Century Modern? What’s making them popular right now?

Art Deco will always be popular with its clean lines, symmetry, and bold design, it’s timeless and gender-fluid. But recently, there’s been a real surge in romantic Victorian pieces: lover’s knots, padlocks, heart-shaped lockets especially wearing albert chains as a necklace. I think post-pandemic, people want connection and those sentimental motifs speak to that.

There’s also a 1970s revival happening. Think chunky gold, big citrines, smoky quartz, bold silhouettes. Very Studio 54!

Georgian pieces, though rarer, are highly sought after. Their exquisite craftsmanship complements the current' old money" aesthetic, which is ironically contrary to trends since old money tends not to follow them. Jessica McCormack offers modern reinterpretations of Georgian jewellery.

9.     Have you noticed a shift in how engagement rings or bridal jewelry is being approached by younger generations? Is vintage becoming the new standard for “forever” pieces?

Definitely. Today’s couples are looking for rings that feel personal, not prescribed. They’re bypassing the standard solitaire and opting for pieces with history, symbolism, and character.

Vintage engagement rings are also more sustainable and often better value. You can get a handmade Edwardian sapphire ring with millegrain detail and old-cut diamonds for less than the price of a modern diamond solitaire and it’s one of a kind.

There’s also more fluidity in what counts as an “engagement” ring. Men are buying rings for themselves: signets, snakes, engraved gems. Couples are picking pieces together. It’s not just about proposals anymore, it’s about the lasting meaning.

Wedding rings should be mentioned. Men before the 1970s never wore wedding rings, and today, most do. It is a personal choice, but it is interesting. Take King Charles III, for example; he wears one under his signet ring on his pinky. Both Prince William and Prince Harry wear one on their wedding finger. The younger generation do want to wear one even if we are not as religious as we used to be.

10.  What misconceptions do you think exist about buying estate or antique jewelry, and how are you helping to educate a new generation of collectors?

There’s still this idea that antique jewellery is either too delicate, dusty, or “old-fashioned.” Or worse… that it’s bad luck! I’ve had people say, “What if it came from a broken marriage?” But honestly you’ll never know the full backstory. It might have been worn with great love, or it might have sat untouched in a safe for a century. The point is: you give it its next chapter. If you love it, it will love you back.

And then there’s the superstition around certain gemstones, especially opals and emeralds. But Queen Victoria, not known for being unlucky, often gave opals to her children and grandchildren. She adored opals and was long seen as a symbol of wisdom and good fortune.

The truth is, emeralds aren’t “bad luck” they just require care. Their natural “jardin” (French for garden) of inclusions makes them more delicate than, say, sapphires or diamonds. It’s not bad luck it’s just part of their nature. The same goes for opals, which are softer and sensitive to sudden temperature changes. But with the right care, they can last for generations.

There’s an old saying about sapphires that they choose you. I think that’s true of all antique jewels. The right piece finds you when the time is right. And that, to me, is the opposite of bad luck, it’s magic.

Another common misconception is that antique jewellery is fragile. But truthfully, modern jewellery can be just as vulnerable. A contemporary diamond ring with side stones is just as prone to wear and tear. Prongs can bend. Stones can loosen. Diamonds may be hard, but they’re not invincible. Whatever you wear, antique or new, it needs care. That’s not a flaw; that’s just jewellery.

And then there’s the confusion. People often feel overwhelmed, like they don’t know what they’re looking at or what questions to ask. Understandably, there’s a lot of reproduction out there, and not everyone selling is transparent.

That’s where we come in. At Parkin & Gerrish, we try to make antique jewellery feel exciting, personal, and accessible. Through close-up videos, storytelling, reels, we explain everything: hallmarks, history, symbolism, and even the odd scratch mark or broken glass. Sometimes a piece needs a bit of TLC. That doesn’t mean it’s flawed; it means it was loved.

Education builds confidence. And a confident buyer becomes a loyal collector. I don’t just want to sell a ring, I want to help someone fall in love with it, understand it, and treasure it. I see myself as a guide, not just a dealer. No question is ever too small and I’ll always do my best to answer it honestly and clearly.

11.  Do you think this shift toward vintage is a passing trend, or does it signal a more permanent change in how luxury is defined and consumed?

It’s permanent. We’re seeing a redefinition of luxury from status symbols and logos to craftsmanship, rarity, and values. Sustainable luxury is the future and here to stay.

Luxury now is about individuality, sustainability, and meaning. Younger buyers are thoughtful. They want to know where something came from, how it was made, and what it says about them.

Antique jewellery delivers all that with sparkle. It’s wearable history. And once you catch the bug, you don’t go back.

12.  Any memorable stories of a young collector or buyer who found “the one…a piece that connected them to history or transformed how they see jewelry?”

Absolutely. I reached out to several Gen Z clients and friends to ask this very question and the stories they shared were both heartfelt and revealing.

One young buyer, Nik, described inheriting his father’s first gold necklace, a piece given to him by his own family at 18. He wore it every day and eventually passed it on. “It’s an emotional piece,” they said, “because it was the first piece of jewellery he ever owned, and it carries history. It gives me strength and reminds me of him. Kinda like a talisman.”

Another Gen Z friend, Fabi, told me he weren’t a collector at all until he bought their first emerald ring. It was a significant purchase, both financially and emotionally. But then he lost it. “That’s when I realised jewellery holds meaning beyond its monetary value. What I once saw as an asset, I now see as something deeply sentimental.”

And then there’s Esme, who said her obsession with antique jewellery began when her sister gave her a pair of peridot earrings, her birthstone. “That gift started everything,” she said. “Gen Z is completely obsessed with vintage and second-hand. Antique has a whole new meaning and purpose for us.”

13.  What advice would you give a first-time buyer looking to start their own vintage jewelry collection? What should they look for in terms of quality, authenticity, and dealer credibility?

Buy with your eye, if something catches your attention, pay attention. Those instinct matters. But always ask questions: When was it made? Is it hallmarked? Has it been altered?

Modifications are more common than many realise. A piece that started as an Edwardian tie pin might now be a pendant. A Victorian double heart brooch might have been turned into a ring. That doesn’t make it worthless but it’s no longer in original condition, and that affects value. The same applies to reproductions. If you see five of the “same” Georgian ring online, trust me, something’s up. Antique jewellery should be unique. Google Image Search can be your best friend.

A good dealer should be transparent and genuinely passionate about what they do. They’ll tell you what makes a piece special but also what’s been repaired or changed. Check their reviews. Is there a real person behind the brand? Someone you can actually talk to? That connection matters.

In my experience, the best jewellery dealers often become friends. They’ll remember what you love. They’ll send you a message when they find something you’ve been dreaming of. And you’ll find yourself building a collection that truly feels like you.

Also, don’t be afraid to get a second opinion. The antique jewellery trade is small, we tend to know one another, or at least someone who does. A good dealer won’t be offended. They’ll welcome the questions.

And finally: always sleep on it. If you’re still thinking about the piece the next morning… it’s probably meant to be. And you can always reserve it!

✨ This conversation was first sparked by an interview I gave for the Observer on why Millennials and Gen Z are embracing antique and vintage jewellery. It was such a joy to share my thoughts on the stories, symbolism, and quiet luxury that make these jewels so irresistible. If you’d like to see the full feature, you can read it here.

💎 And if you’d like to discover a piece of history for yourself, you can explore our latest collection of antique and vintage jewellery here.