古董、复古、遗产、二手：所有这些标签的真正含义（以及如何自信地读懂它们）

jewelry中的词汇很有分量。它们代表着年代、工艺、出处，有时还代表着市场营销。以下是一份清晰、友好的指南，向您介绍最常见的术语、专业人士如何使用这些术语，以及我们Parkin &Gerrish 如何使用这些术语。

Antique

Meaning: A piece that’s at least 100 years old.
Typical eras: Georgian (1714–1837), Victorian (1837–1901), Edwardian/Belle Époque (c.1901–1914), and older.

Why it matters: “Antique” signals handwork, old-world techniques (closed backs, foiling, cut-down settings), and period design language. Expect gentle wear and glorious character; expect to learn its quirks.

Vintage

Meaning: Commonly used for pieces 20 to 99 years old.
Typical eras inside “vintage”: Art Deco (1920s–30s), Mid-Century (1940s–60s), Seventies gold, Eighties statement jewels, Nineties designer.

Why it matters: Vintage spans everything from Deco geometry to 1970s ropes of silky yellow gold. Condition and craftsmanship can vary widely—so the description should tell you more than the label.

Estate

Meaning: Simply previously owned. It does not guarantee a particular age. An estate ring could be Art Deco—or bought last year and resold.

Why it matters: Estate is about ownership history, not era. Read on to see whether it’s also antique or vintage.

Pre-Owned / Second-Hand

Meaning: Catch-all for not new. Age unspecified.

Why it matters: Useful for contemporary designer pieces, modern engagement rings, or signed jewels that have had one careful owner.

Period vs. Style (a vital distinction)

• Period pieces were made during the era they represent (e.g., an Art Deco ring from the 1920s–30s).

• Style pieces were made later, in that era’s manner (e.g., “Art Deco–style” ring made in the 1980s).

Why it matters: A period jewel carries the techniques, materials and proportions of its time. A style jewel channels the look, often with modern construction.

Retro (with a capital R)

Meaning: A specific period style (late 1930s–1940s): bold curves, rose gold, tank bracelets, rubies and citrines.

Why it matters: “Retro” is both a historic movement and a modern adjective. We use it for the wartime/Immediate Post-War look unless stated otherwise.

Revival, Reproduction & Replica

• Revival: Later jewels that re-interpret earlier styles with skill (e.g., Victorian Etruscan Revival granulation, Egyptian Revival after 1922).

• Reproduction: A direct copy of an earlier design, made later; quality varies.

• Replica: Often a sanctioned or clearly labelled copy (e.g., museum replicas).

Why it matters: None of these are “fake” if described honestly. Trouble starts when a reproduction is passed off as period.

Conversion & Repurposed

Meaning: A jewel adapted from an earlier form—stickpin to ring, brooch to pendant, bracelet from a watch chain.

Why it matters: Conversions can be wonderful when sympathetic (respecting old work, using period-appropriate techniques). We’ll always tell you exactly what’s been done.

Signed, Attributed, In the Manner of

• Signed: Bears the maker’s mark/signature (e.g., Boucheron, Mappin & Webb).

• Attributed to: Strong evidence but no definitive signature.

• In the manner of / School of: Evokes a house or designer without claiming authorship.

Why it matters: Signatures affect collectability. Attributions should be reasoned and transparent.

Hallmarked, Assayed, Tested

• Hallmarked/Assayed: Stamped by an official office confirming metal fineness (e.g., 18ct with date and town marks).

• Tested: Metal verified by jeweller’s testing when hallmarks are absent (common on Continental and very old pieces).

Why it matters: Hallmarks tell rich stories—place, year, maker. Testing tells you the true metal when stamps are missing or worn.

Condition language (how to read the small print)

• Original condition: Normal age wear; no significant later changes.

• Sympathetically restored: Work done to preserve integrity (e.g., retipping claws, secure old settings) while retaining period character.

• Polished/refinished: Surface brightened; may soften edges.

• Patina: The gentle glow and tonal changes that come with age—often desirable.

• Later replacement: A replaced stone or component; should be identified.

Our approach: We favour original surfaces, careful restoration for longevity, and full disclosure.

Materials with modern restrictions

Victorian and earlier jewels may include ivory, tortoiseshell, coral, bog oak, feather, or horn. Today, trade in certain materials is restricted or banned. Authentic period pieces can sometimes be owned or sold under specific regulations; we always follow the rules—and we’ll advise you clearly.

Provenance

Meaning: The documented life of a jewel—who owned it, where it came from, how it travelled.

Why it matters: Provenance can add romance and value; even a note in a jewel box is a tiny time-capsule. We record and pass along everything we know.

A quick buyer’s cheat-sheet

• Antique = 100+ years old

• Vintage = 20–99 years old

• Estate / Pre-Owned = previously owned (age varies)

• Period = made in the era itself

• Style = later homage to the era

• Revival = skilled, later re-imagining of an old style

• Reproduction/Replica = later copy; quality varies

• Conversion = thoughtfully adapted from another jewel or use

• Signed/Attributed = degrees of maker certainty

• Hallmarked/Assayed/Tested = how metal purity is confirmed

• Patina/Restored = honest age vs careful maintenance

How we label at Parkin & Gerrish

• We use Antique, Vintage, Period, Style and Conversion exactly as defined above.

• We always disclose restoration, later parts and replaced stones.

• We celebrate patina and keep polishing sympathetic (never over-bright).

• Where hallmarks sing, we translate them; where marks are absent, we test and tell you.

• When in doubt, we say so—and explain why we believe what we believe.

Final word

Whether it’s a Georgian sentimental ring or a 1970s chain with swagger, clarity of language helps you buy with joy, not guesswork. If a term puzzles you, ask—we love the conversation as much as the jewellery.